“First you fall in love with Antarctica, and then it breaks your heart.”
--Kim Stanley Robinson
The world’s highest, driest, windiest, and coldest continent is, unsurprisingly, also the most remote. To reach it, one must brave the furies of the infamous Drake Passage, one of the world’s roughest seas where waves could reach four storeys high. For two and a half days, the sky and the ocean take turns flooding the view through the cabin porthole, alternately creating the illusion that one is on a plane and in a submarine every few seconds. If the relentless motion or flying objects in the cabin don’t take you out, the